An Alternative Weekend Guide to New Orleans
If you’re looking for a New Orleans experience removed from the hustle and bustle of Bourbon Street, this is the guide for you. I asked locals for top recommendations and put boots on the ground over Mardi Gras weekend to try them out.
If you’ve never been to New Orleans, it’s worth checking out the French Quarter, Jackson Square, Cafe Du Monde, and every other place you can find on the general travel blogs. They’re famous for a reason. But if you’ve had your fair share of drunken college stupors on the cobblestone roads of NOLA, I’ve got a graduated itinerary for you.
Lodging
Try branching out from the buzz of the French Quarter by staying in the Freret district. It’s a walkable uptown neighborhood preferred by young locals and college students. Filled with restaurants, coffee shops, and palpable energy, this is a perfect way to experience a different side of New Orleans.
For this trip, we stayed in an Airbnb off of Claiborne and Cadiz and it was perfect. About a 10-minute walk to Freret Street, where I spent most of my time, or a 10-minute uber to the French Quarter. The Airbnb was a bit pricy but it was worth it because we saved money being able to walk almost everywhere, plus dining options were way more reasonable in this neighborhood. I highly recommend this over the constant chaos and expense of Bourbon Street and the French Quarter.
Food
Vals
4632 Freret St
Now, I know you don’t typically think tacos when you think New Orleans, but trust me on this one. Vals deserves to be on the list. The Quesabirria was to die for and the Conchinita Pibil pork taco changed my life. It’s a fun atmosphere with a modern patio for outdoor dining- a great spot to enjoy their killer Sunday brunch. Vals boasts a simple, inexpensive, and mouth-watering menu. I ate here twice in four days if that tells you anything. Bonus point: Located in a cute, walkable neighborhood.
Bearcat Cafe
2521 Jena St
I think this was some of the best food and service I’ve ever had in my life. Expect a wait at the door, this place is always packed and it’s worth it. Wait as long as you need. They have the hearty soul food you crave in Louisiana infused with a delicious variety of vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and gluten-free options. It’s foodie heaven with a show. The open kitchen is a joy to watch as your food comes to life with the insane passion and precision of their cooks. Shrimp and grits, hot chicken sandwiches, or vegan biscuits and gravy. This is THE spot for breakfast and lunch.
The Bulldog Bar
3236 Magazine St
If you’re into dark, cold Irish bars with absurd amounts of beer- this is the place for you. No, but really. This place was built in 1994 with the sole intention of taking draft beer seriously. I’m not a huge beer drinker myself but I came for the $4 waffle fries and I was not disappointed. I can see why they’re known for some of the best bar food in New Orleans. Bonus Point: Wednesday was apparently pint night so we got to take our glass home!
Napoleon House
500 Chartres St.
If you’re looking for the picture-perfect quintessential dining experience, look no further than Napoleon House. A hidden oasis from the busyness of Chartres Street, you enter through a 200-year-old historic landmark home to a palm-filled courtyard bursting with life and flavor. If you’re in New Orleans, you have to try a muffuletta sandwich and there is no better place than here. I don’t make the rules, but I know that’s one of them. If you’re looking for something on the lighter side food-wise, I had the shrimp remoulade stuffed avocado salad and it was phenomenal. Pro Tip: Start with the charcuterie board, featuring local alligator sausage, and pair it with a signature Pimm’s cup, a refreshing cocktail brought over from British influence.
Manolito
508 Dumaine St
Frozen drinks aren’t just for tropical vacations anymore. If you find yourself walking the French Quarter searching for a sweet treat to cool you down, Manolito is the place for you. They have an extensive menu of delicious single and double frozen daiquiris as well as built-in glass and effervescent cocktails that will blow your mind. A quick and convenient stop on your walk, you can even take drinks with you and venture down to the river.
Mojo Coffee House
4700 Freret St
I know coffee isn’t a food, but I had the best quad espresso of my life here and I couldn’t not add it to the list. And let’s be honest, a good cup of coffee is a meal in itself most days. For those with better diets than I, Mojo also keeps an assortment of hot breakfast burritos, muffins, and pastries ready for grab-n-go. Plus it’s a great spot to set up with your laptop and spend a morning catching up on work. I got 4 shots of espresso with their salted caramel syrup and whole milk and I’ve woken up thinking of it every day since. 10/10 recommend.
Things to do
I took an afternoon and walked from Freret Street to Magazine Street along Napoleon Ave and it was one of the highlights of my trip. It’s block after block of historic shotgun homes with yards full of intricate and dazzling landscaping. The Magazine district is another great, walkable area to stop in and out of shops and restaurants. You can stop for a draft beer and waffle fries at Bulldog, get a tattoo or piercing at Pigment Tattoo shop, or stop for a snowball or soup depending on the season at this local pop-up.
Definitely check out a concert at Tipitina’s if you can. This historic neighborhood staple has been playing the blues for nearly 50 years and is one of the best venues I’ve ever been to. (If you’ve ever been to Janus Live in St Pete, FL it’s a very similar vibe.) It’s an intimate two-story, indoor locale with incredible sound and killer lights. Plus, who doesn’t love a disco ball?
Tipitina’s keeps a revolving door of local artists, even sometimes offering free concerts. If you’re staying in the Freret district, it’s about a ~1.5-mile walk but definitely doable on a nice day. If you go, keep an eye out for the bronze bust of Professor Longhair, one of the most revered R&B artists to come from New Orleans and the legend to which this venue is dedicated. Tradition says to rub his head for good luck and I’ve never been one to argue with tradition.
Honestly, walking around and sightseeing on foot is one of my favorite things to do when visiting a new area. Between the endless sidewalks and hop-on-and-off-trolley system, New Orleans is the perfect place for just that. With great food and music on every corner, you can spend a whole afternoon getting to know a single street or neighborhood. For instance, in one block on Decatur Street, you can hit Sneaker Politics, No Pulp Records, and Crescent City Books, then finish it off with dinner at Carre. My best advice would be to pick a safe location and start adventuring in whatever direction looks best, stopping for a bite to eat in each place along the way. (I found food was way more affordable here than most places I travel to so it’s easy to spend very little and see a bunch of great restaurants and bars.)
Final Review
If you’ve written New Orleans off your list thinking it’s a crime-ridden city filled with booze and reeking of vomit, I beg you to reconsider. This was a side of New Orleans I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing before. This was daytime streets bursting with culture and filled with stories; beautiful faces and friends just waiting to be made. I’ve been to this city half a dozen times now and I still find something new and endearing every time I go. There’s so much more to this city than busy crowds and sugary drinks, sometimes you just have to look a little harder.
